Moda no cinema: 5 documentários para saber mais sobre esse universo
Listamos cinco produções cinematográficas para você ficar por dentro dos principais temas que circundam o mundo da moda.
Por Fernanda Neves
Os bastidores da moda e da vida das principais personalidades deste meio fazem parte do imaginário de quem ama esse universo. Glamour, grandes desfiles e peças maravilhosas normalmente são as primeiras coisas associadas quando se pensa nesse assunto, porém existem muitas questões por trás das produções icônicas que precisam ser conhecidas. Pensando nisso, listamos 5 documentários sobre várias vertentes da moda. Separe a pipoca e se prepare para se deslumbrar e também, se conscientizar.
Franca: chaos and creation – 2016
Esse documentário retrata a vida pessoal e profissional de Franca Sozzani, famosa e emblemática editora-chefe da Vogue Itália por 28 anos. Sozzani foi um dos principais nomes do mundo da moda pelo seu notável talento e por abordar temas que vão além das roupas na passarela. Um dos seus trabalhos mais importantes foi uma edição da revista lançada em 2008, que trouxe apenas modelos negras e foi denominada Black Issue, essa produção destacou a Vogue Itália e aumentou a relevância do veículo.
A produção cinematográfica está disponível na Netflix e foi dirigida pelo filho da editora, Francesco Carrozzini. Ele traz relatos de momentos importantes da carreira de Sozzani por meio de entrevistas com nomes famosos da moda como a modelo Naomi Campbell e a designer Donatella Versace. A editora faleceu em 2016, vítima de um câncer, mas seu legado e importância no mundo da moda perduram e seguem influenciando milhares de pessoas.
The True Cost – 2015
Quem paga o que você economiza ao adquirir peças com custos baixos e qualidade inferior em lojas de departamento? Podemos eleger essa pergunta como questão principal do documentário “O real custo”. Durante os 92 minutos de duração a produção explícita para o telespectador a realidade e as consequências de um tipo de indústria da moda, a fast fashion.
Esse estilo de produção barateou os custos das peças, ampliou – e muito – a quantidade de coleções lançadas pelas marcas, diminuiu a qualidade das roupas e acessórios a fim de que o consumo deles seja “rápido”. Para atingir tudo isso foi preciso terceirizar a produção, esse modelo produtivo engloba os principais problemas retratados por “The true cost”. As peças são feitas em países de terceiro mundo, nos quais os salários são mais baixos, as condições de trabalho são precárias e os direitos trabalhistas são praticamente inexistentes.O desabamento da fábrica Rana Plaza em Dhaka, Bangladesh, ilustra bem essa situação.
Além disso, a produção cinematográfica também mostra as consequências desse ramo da moda para a agricultura e para o meio-ambiente, com a ampliação da produção de algodão e com o aumento da produção de lixo, respectivamente. Sem dúvidas, esse documentário vai te fazer pensar sobre seu papel enquanto consumidor e admirador do universo da moda.
Fresh Dressed – 2015
A relação entre a moda e o hip hop é o tema deste documentário, disponível integralmente no YouTube, que conta com depoimentos de Kanye West e Pharrell Williams. De maneira cronológica a produção mostra como essa mistura surgiu, de que maneira se deu a sua consagração e a influência dessa moda construída nas ruas de bairros periféricos em tendências fashions exibidas nas grandes passarelas. Além disso, o documentário aborda o papel do movimento negro para construir esse estilo e identidade de inúmeros jovens.
Unravel – 2012
Com apenas 13 minutos de duração essa produção é capaz de deixar o telespectador inquieto ao mostrar o que acontece com as roupas que são descartadas por pessoas do Ocidente. Em uma cidade do Norte da Índia várias pessoas, principalmente mulheres, são responsáveis por fazer a reciclagem (transformar os tecidos em lã para produzir cobertores) de grandes amontoados de roupas.
Por meio da visão de algumas trabalhadoras desses locais o documentário faz uma crítica ao consumo desenfreado da população ocidental. “Todo mundo diz que as roupas vêm para cá porque falta água no Ocidente”, conta uma das entrevistadas. “A água custa tanto quanto as roupas, para essas pessoas. É por isso que elas usam suas roupas 2 ou 3 vezes e depois jogam fora”, complementa a segunda trabalhadora. Com essas falas, as mulheres indianas tentam achar maneiras de justificar o descarte de peças novas e semi-novas, o que nos faz pensar na maneira como consumimos elementos da indústria da moda.
O documentário legendado está disponível no Vimeo.
The September Issue – 2009
Esse documentário é para quem tem curiosidade de saber como funciona a produção de uma revista. Mas não é qualquer título, é o processo de criação da Vogue Norte-Americana! “The September Issue” mostra o passo a passo da elaboração da edição de Setembro de 2007 do veículo, que é a maior e mais importante edição do ano, porque traz em boa parte das suas páginas o que terá de mais criativo e icônico na nova temporada de moda. É a edição que antecipa as principais tendências que vão fazer a cabeça de muitos fashionistas de plantão e que atrai o maior número de anunciantes.
O documentário também mostra Anna Wintour, editora-chefe da publicação, em seu dia a dia de trabalho. Wintour é considerada um dos nomes mais importantes da moda atualmente e há especulações que a sua personalidade inspirou a criação da personagem Miranda Priestly, a vilã do aclamado filme “O Diabo Veste Prada”.
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